Category: MacBook

The original poster on MacRumors, a user by the name of a-m-k, shared an effective tip on September 3, 2009, regarding resolution settings. They emphasized the importance of resetting one’s display resolution to its default setting, stating that it had resolved similar issues for them. In their post, they noted that restoring the resolution to the default was a practical solution and suggested that users might need to revert to this setting again if they want to use their camera. This hint indicates a potential conflict between display resolution and camera functionality, which can be an important consideration for users experiencing problems.

This advice is particularly valuable for those who may not be aware of how resolution settings can impact device performance. By highlighting their personal experience, a-m-k encourages others facing the same difficulties to try this straightforward remedy. The simplicity of the suggestion makes it accessible for users of varying technical skills, potentially saving time and frustration for many. Overall, a-m-k’s recommendation serves as a reminder of the importance of checking basic settings when troubleshooting technical issues, as these often overlooked adjustments can lead to quick and easy fixes.

Hello,

I am looking to upgrade my current 11″ 2015 MacBook Air, as it is becoming too slow for my needs. The M1 MacBook Air really catches my eye; it’s powerful and I appreciate its sleek wedge design.

However, I have some reservations about the M3 model that my wife owns—it doesn’t embody the Apple aesthetic to me. I am leaning towards the 16GB version, which is currently priced above 630 Euros.

This seems quite high considering there are now three newer processor options available. I expected that prices would have decreased significantly five years after the initial release of the M1.

While there are 8GB models available for approximately 500 Euros, I plan to keep my Macs for a long time, so opting for more RAM would enhance the longevity of the device. Best regards,

Philip

It is important to recognize that videos cannot accurately represent what the human eye perceives in real-life scenarios. The human eye operates very differently from a video camera, exhibiting greater flexibility in handling aspects such as refresh rates, resolutions, brightness, and color balance. Therefore, the only true way to assess a system’s performance is through direct interaction; it won’t take weeks to identify issues that might impact your experience.

For instance, I can record a video of my MacBook Air showing a flicker that originates from a mismatch in refresh rates with my iPhone. While the video might appear poor, I haven’t noticed any flicker while using the laptop for three years. This discussion isn’t new, but it warrants a response.

Some argue that videos vividly illustrate what the eyes see, making it easier to understand phenomena that may not be apparent in real-time. Our biology processes light signals rapidly; when a display flickers, it can be understood as a mechanism for adjusting brightness using pulse-width modulation (PWM). It’s noteworthy that many laptops are specifically designed to avoid PWM for brightness control given its known adverse effects on sensitivity.

As a result, individuals who are sensitive to PWM should steer clear of Apple laptops, unless they are paired with an external non-PWM display. This hardware design constraint is prevalent in many PC laptops and even smartphones. I have personally experienced migraines linked to PWM displays.

After using an iMac that caused significant eye strain, I realized that the headaches subsided once I stopped using it. Consequently, my M1 Pro MacBook Pro remains unused unless connected to an external monitor, as I experienced discomfort after just three days of use. In my opinion, electronic devices utilizing PWM should carry warnings about their potential health impacts.

The mechanism at play is that the eye adjusts its light intake by dilating and constricting pupils. When a display flickers excessively, it causes pupil dilation that can lead to discomfort and potential damage over time. This issue has persisted with various devices since 2012, necessitating careful selection of laptops to avoid such problems.

Ultimately, the only viable solution for those affected is to use an external display that does not rely on PWM. Anything else could be merely a placebo, failing to address the core of the issue.

I recently attempted to remove the bottom case of my 2019 16″ MacBook Pro to install some thermal pads inside. However, I am having difficulty securing the back corner of the case. After several attempts, I’ve taken the case off multiple times, trying to follow the guides from iFixit and other YouTube videos.

Unfortunately, I still can’t figure out where I’m going wrong. I’ve attached some pictures for reference, including one of the opposite corner where the case is correctly snapped down. This gives a clearer view of how it should look when everything is in place.

Despite my efforts, the back corner simply won’t secure properly. I’m reaching out for any suggestions or tips that might help me resolve this issue. Any insights from those who have experience with this model would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

I’ve had consistent issues with the speakers in my MacBook Pro (MBP) models. Starting with my 13-inch 2009 model, the speakers were already malfunctioning when I acquired it.

My first 2012 13-inch MBP failed just six months before I had to replace it, and its successor followed suit a week later. While my 2012 15-inch Retina MBP initially showed no problems, after a month, one of its speakers also failed.

Now, my 2014 15-inch Retina MBP has experienced a similar fate with its left speaker. The common factor in all of these failures seems to be the foam that attaches the central membrane to the speaker chassis.

This is puzzling because none of my other laptops from brands like HP, Dell, Lenovo, or Asus have ever had similar speaker issues. Upon inspecting those devices, I found that they do not incorporate foam in their speakers.

It raises the question: why did Apple choose to use foam in high-end products? It seems to deteriorate over time, often just after the warranty period runs out, with no clear advantage for its use.

Is there a viable solution for this problem? Replacement parts are likely to be just as old and prone to the same failure.

Ideally, I would want to replace merely the faulty speaker with a compatible model that doesn’t rely on foam. Finding a long-lasting solution would be essential, especially since the current trend indicates that these parts will only continue to age and deteriorate further.

It’s frustrating to deal with such recurring issues in premium devices.

I am currently using macOS 10.13.3 (High Sierra) on my 2017 MacBook Air, which has an Intel i5 processor, 8GB of RAM, and a 120GB SSD. I am considering an upgrade to Monterey (12.7.4) and am weighing my options. There are two upgrade paths to think about:

1. The step-by-step upgrade process which involves moving from 10.13 (High Sierra) to 10.14 (Mojave), then to 10.15 (Catalina), followed by 11 (Big Sur), and finally reaching 12 (Monterey).

2. A direct upgrade from 10.13 (High Sierra) to 12.7.4 (Monterey). However, I have some concerns about the upgrade process. One major issue is the potential for problems related to the APFS conversion.

Additionally, I am wondering if any of my 32-bit applications will become incompatible after the upgrade. I am also contemplating whether to opt for a clean install or an upgrade-in-place, keeping in mind the implications for performance and stability, especially on older MacBook Air hardware. I have taken precautions by making multiple backups, including using Time Machine, creating a bootable USB installer for Monterey, and having external SSD backups. My primary goal is to avoid any risks of rendering my Mac unusable or encountering unexpected firmware issues during the upgrade.

I would appreciate any insights from others who have made this leap or have taken partial steps recently. If anyone has encountered challenges or has helpful tips regarding this upgrade process, I would be grateful for your input.

Best Buy is currently offering a $200 discount on several models of the 2024 M3 MacBook Air, making it an excellent time for customers to consider an upgrade. The deals primarily target the 13-inch variants, with the price starting at just $699 for the 256GB M3 MacBook Air, down from its original price of $899.

Additionally, the 16GB RAM and 512GB SSD version of the M3 MacBook Air is available for $899, while the 24GB RAM and 512GB SSD model is priced at $1,099. These prices represent significant reductions, making it an optimal opportunity for those looking for the latest technology.

Notably, Best Buy is the exclusive retailer for these offers at this time. If you are also in the market for the recently released M4 MacBook Air, Amazon has some ongoing promotions.

The entry-level 256GB 13-inch M4 MacBook Air is priced at $849, reflecting a $150 discount, while the 256GB 15-inch model is available for $1,049, also down $150. For those interested in staying informed about the latest Apple discounts and accessories, subscribing to a Deals Newsletter is a good way to keep track of the best offers throughout the season.

In other news, there are exciting developments regarding upcoming Apple products, including the anticipated iPhone 17 Pro models and the Apple Watch Ultra 3. Analysts suggest that both devices will be launched later this year, with the watch expected to feature improvements, although its design may remain similar to previous models.

Meanwhile, iOS 26 compatibility has been confirmed for newer iPhone models, ensuring continued security updates for previous generations.

Hello everyone,

I recently bought a used M1 MacBook Air from a friend. It came with the latest version of MacOS Sequoia, but I’m planning to perform a fresh reinstall of the operating system since some native apps are experiencing glitches. I believe that a clean install could potentially fix these issues. Since acquiring the MacBook, I have customized various aspects, including the Dock, Finder, and Menu Bar, based on my personal preferences.

My main concern is whether these customizations will be lost after I reinstall MacOS. If they are lost, I will have to redo the customizations, which can be quite tedious. I’ve watched numerous videos to guide me through the process, but I don’t have the time to revisit all of them. Additionally, I am wondering if a fresh install will also remove the apps I’ve already installed.

To clarify, do I need to erase and format the existing OS before reinstalling, or can I install the new version directly over the current one? If erasing is necessary, I would like guidance on how to do that in MacOS. I appreciate any insights or tips on how to handle this fresh installation smoothly while keeping as much of my custom setup as possible. Thank you!